Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
